The 12 Best Scuba Tanks In 2023

BUYING GUIDE

Should I get steel or aluminum?

Pretty much all scuba tanks come in two main materials; aluminum or steel. Aluminum tanks are more popular in the tropical recreational dive centers, whereas steel tanks are more popular with side-mount, tec and deep divers in colder waters.

Neither is better than the other and it just solely depends on how you are physically endowed and your intended use of the tank(s).

Aluminum Prosaluminum tanks are particularly popular in tropical locations as they are less prone to inner corrosion than steel tanks. Many holiday destinations are quite remote and so having tanks that are easy to maintain is a big plus for you and the dive shop.

If you do get any saltwater inside, then it is comparably easier and cheaper to fix. The special coating inside an aluminum tank means the corrosion won’t spread and you can jet wash it away.

Aluminum is much cheaper than steel, so if you need to buy multiple tanks, buying aluminum will burn less of a hole in your pocket.

Aluminum ConsAluminum is lighter and softer, which means it will scratch, dent and crack more easily. Being a softer metal, they cannot withstand the higher pressures that a steel one can.

Most aluminum cylinders have max working pressures of 3000PSI.

Generally, aluminum tanks will start as being 2.2lbs/1kg negative and will become 2.2lbs/1kg buoyant once they hit the 725PSI/50bar mark. So you may have to bring extra weights to compensate for this change.

If you are looking for a casual tank for fun shore dives in warm-tropical waters then aluminum will suit your needs just fine.

Steel Pros

Even though steel is more prone to inner corrosion, this is less an issue in cooler, drier climates, like the USA or Europe. With the proper maintenance, it will last longer.

Steel is strong, so a standard 80cf tank can be a little shorter and thus lighter (approx. 6 inches and 4lbs) than its aluminum cousin. A bonus for teenagers or those of us who are vertically challenged.

Steel tanks will start and end the dive as negative (-8lbs to -2lbs) which is great if you need extra weights or wear a drysuit/thick wetsuit. You can cheat by spreading some of the weight onto the tanks instead of on belt/BCD, and not have to worry about popping up like maybe you would with an aluminum cylinder.

Steel can withstand higher pressures and so if you’re a big fellow who is guzzling air and needs those extra weights, definitely go with a steel tank. Those stronger walls will allow you to pack in more air so you can enjoy a longer dive and feel freer with fewer weights adorning your waistline, eventually improving your diving technique.

Steel Cons 

Since steel is stronger than aluminum, you’d be forgiven to think it’s the better and popular choice. But durability comes at a price, and that can be nearly double in some cases. But most argue that it’s worth the investment.

Steel is denser so when comparing two tanks (aluminum and steel) of the same height, steel will be heavier. (eg Catalina AL63 vs Faber Steel HP80) And it doesn’t get much lighter throughout the dive. A full high-pressured 17L steel tank is about 50lbs!

If you get any salt water inside then it doesn’t take long for rust to begin and ruin your tank.

Steel tanks are the standard of tec and side-mount divers due to their longevity and their added weight.

To decide what material to pick, remember to consider where you are in the world, your physique, your wants/needs and your financial budget.

But what size should I get?

Ok, you’ve decided to go with steel/aluminum. But now you have to decide what size to go with. To help explain, we are going to compare four different tanks, highlighting their similarities and differences.

Short Steel Faber HP80, 10.2L

Compared to the Catalina AL63, the Faber steel is much heavier (5.3lbs) and thus a higher volume capacity (13%, 1.2L). The Faber has a service pressure of 3442PSI, packing approx. 10% more liters than the Catalina. This is beneficial for tec divers, where every liter of air matters and they want to be as efficient as possible.

Say you’re diving tec side-mount and need 4 tanks; that extra 10% is now a 40% volume increase!  Their shorter length will allow for freer movements.  Also, those heavier steel tanks have minimal buoyancy loss, which is a bonus since you can be less concerned about how many weights you need on your belt or BCD.

Short aluminum Catalina AL63, 9L

Catalina AL63 is often used by teenagers or women/smaller framed divers. It is 5 inches or 10cm shorter than the industry AL80 and so much easier to carry. Often dive centers will supply these shorter tanks to cater to their smaller guests.

If you are on the shorter side, then it makes sense to get a shorter tank to better suit you physically! Also smaller divers tend to have better air consumption and so can make do with a tank with slightly less volume. If in warmer waters means you probably are wearing no/minimal thermal protection so you don’t need heaps of weights. And so the buoyancy change from positive doesn’t really affect you.

Standard aluminum Luxfer LAL80, 11.1L

The 26-inch, 11.1L tank is the goldilocks of tanks-not too big, not too small, nor too heavy. It fits everyone just right! (Well, nearly everyone!) For many of us, when dive recreationally with a dive center in warm waters, this is the tank we receive.

The standard 11.1L does the job of an everyday-use tank very well, being of middle size and holding enough air to last most of us a 45-60-minute dive. Mid-range pressure tanks (3000 PSI) like this Luxfer are accepted by any dive centers, so filling it won’t be a problem; high-pressure tanks, 3400PSI+, are more demanding on a compressor so not all centers will be willing to fill them.

So for example, if you are living by warm waters, are of regular build and want your own tank so you and your buddies can do regular shore dives, then the 11.1L will suit your needs just fine.

Large Steel Faber HP120, 15.2L

Lastly looking at the Faber HP120, this is one of the largest of the tanks. This tank has very specific features that only really cater to a specific diver. A 15L is perfect for the larger amongst us, who tend to need more air to supply their big physique.

Understandably, the taller and/or bigger you are, the more energy you burn and hence more air you’ll consume. The Faber HP120 is a longer tank as well so that could help with your trim if you find the 80cf/11.1L tank a little short on your back.

Often new (and/or bigger) divers who are initially struggling with air consumption and trim etc., are offered 15L. This allows them to stop stressing over excess consumption and the buoyancy changes of an aluminum tank. Now they can relax and improve their buoyancy control. And being relaxed diving is obviously the ultimate goal for all of us!

So you can see what size you choose is mostly based on two factors: your intended use–recreational or tec diving; and your physique–smaller body=smaller tanks, larger body=larger tanks.

To finish off check out this video and find out how scuba tanks are made and their history!

ACCESSORIES

Tank Boots

A tank boot is a plastic cover that is for the bottom of your tank. Definitely, something we recommend for most tanks, especially since some steel tanks are curved at the base and cant stand without one.

A tank boot is beneficial as protection if you are constantly placing your tank on a hard surface. Often after a dive, the tanks & BCDs can get flung to the floor and the tank boot deters any bumps with hard surfaces. The boot is hollow and so it’s self-draining.

Try this one!

Nets/Mesh

Feel free to google “scuba tank mesh” and be entertained by the numerous forums endlessly debating for and against the mesh! Essentially it is a cylindrical net that covers the tank, which can stop minor scrapes and scratches and protect potential paintwork.

You get a cover for your phone, so why wouldn’t you for your tank right? They come in many snazzy colors, helping to distinguish you (or your guide) underwater, and adding some extra flair to your gear!

Which color will you choose?

Holders

Tank holders or a cylinder rack are definitely a necessity for driving-to-destination divers. Most of the variants are in a lying down position and help to keep your cylinders secure in the trunk as you drive. This means you can drive around without having to worry that your tanks are banging up the back of the car. Better for your tanks, your car and your sanity!

We like this one the best!

Extra O-rings

Bring spare o-rings, and you will be everyone’s best buddy, including your own! There is nothing more annoying than doing your final safety check only to hear that horrifying hiss slowly leaking from the valve. This nifty little gizmo is a cute little scuba tank, full of spare o-rings and a pick to pry out the old ones!

Get it here!

Din insert

If you choose a Yoke/A-clamp regulator then for sure you should carry a din insert in your bag of spare kit. Any dive center worth its salt (water) will have these readily available. But it’s never a bad idea to have your own insert and tools with you just in case. Just remember not to leave the insert in the valve if it’s not your own tank!

You can pick them up here.

Hopefully, this guide helped to clear up most of your scuba tank questions!

If you have any specific cylinder queries, comment below and we’d be happy to answer them below.

Hopefully, this guide helped to clear up most of your scuba tank questions!

If you have any specific cylinder queries, comment below and we’d be happy to answer them below.