9 Best Scuba Regulators in 2023 | Complete Buyer’s Guide

Whether you are a brand new diver or a seasoned veteran, a once-a-year-on-vacation diver or weekend warrior spending every free minute in the water, knowing which regulator will fit your needs is important. You don’t want to overspend and buy a piece of equipment that you’ll never benefit from, nor do you want to buy a regulator that you’ll have to replace next year.

Regulators are available in a variety of designs, either balanced or unbalanced, diaphragm or piston, and with options such as a swivel turret, DIN or yoke, or even with an additional low-pressure port.

Ultimately, your decision about what to buy comes down to comfort and planned use. We have dived all these regulators in the specific conditions they were designed for, and we’ve compiled a list of our favorites, meant to fit your personal needs.

In our buyer’s guide beneath the reviews, we break down what to look for when buying a regulator, all the ins and outs, and maybe even simplify some of those tricky terms you’ll find on online message boards or at your local dive shop.

How we test

All the regulators in this guide have undergone testing, either by me or another member of the DIVEIN staff. My process follows the same guidelines for all regulators.

I tested the intermediate pressure of all first-stage regulators using a handheld gauge, and I placed all second stages on the bench to assess their “cracking pressure,” or how easy it is to take a breath. Once I determined the regulators were up to the task, I began my second phase.

I dived all the regulators, first in the pool — just as I would any new regulator — then in the quarry, and finally in the open ocean. I took any regulator considered “high-performance” the limits of recreational diving to ensure that it performed as advertised. Additionally, I followed conservative dive profiles suggested by the U.S. Navy Dive Table.

I judged all the regulators based on ease of breathing, performance, cost, features, and even comfort. With today’s supreme technology and manufacturer experience, you would have to search high and low to find a so-called “bad” regulator from a reputable brand. My personal policy is that if I wouldn’t let my loved ones dive with a piece of equipment, I won’t recommend it to you. You can feel confident diving any of these regulators, as long as they meet your needs and planned diving environment.

Let’s DIVE IN and take a look at the top regulators of the year…

What to look for when buying a scuba regulator

There’s a lot to consider when it comes to buying a scuba regulator. Where you’ll be diving; if the water is primarily cold or warm; how deep you plan to dive; if it will be in saltwater or freshwater; if you’ll be traveling a lot; the price; and the type of diving you’ll do will all impact your purchase decision.

Here are a few factors you should consider:

Do you need a DIN or yoke?

It all depends on where you’re diving, as standard usage of each type is highly geographical. If you’re primarily diving in places where the tanks are set up for yoke regulators, of course that’s what you’ll want. If, however, you encounter more DIN valve tanks, go for a DIN regulator.

Not sure of the difference? It’s pretty simple—just remember that “DIN screws in,” which means that a DIN valve regulator screws into a threaded opening on a tank. A yoke (or international) regulator, on the other hand, sits over the tank’s opening valve.

A DIN regulator has an internal O-ring inside the scuba regulator itself, which is visible when you remove the dust cap. That way, when you screw the regulator into the tank, the O-ring is snugly inside. On a yoke setup, the O-ring is seated in the opening of the tank.

Of note here is that yoke tanks are more common. Most rental tanks, especially aluminum, are yoke, as are most tanks found in the Caribbean and other popular dive destinations.

Proponents of DIN argue, however, that because the O-ring is placed in a less superficial position, there is an added level of safety because O-rings won’t blow. For this reason, DIN is becoming increasingly popular as more and more dive shops offer both DIN and yoke tanks. The overwhelming majority of steel tanks use a DIN setup.

So, when deciding, consider whether you will be diving primarily with steel tanks or whether you’ll be traveling to destinations that favor the yoke setup.

Can I use a DIN regulator on a yoke tank?

You certainly can. You’ll just need a converter. Look for one that is solidly made from durable materials and looks like it can take a few knocks. For DIN divers, a converter is an essential bit of gear that should never leave your dive bag when you’re on a scuba vacation.

We like this converter from manufacturer Aqua DIN.

Can I use a yoke regulator on a DIN tank?

Yes, but you need to know what you’re doing, as there’s a safety issue here. A DIN tank is rated to 300 bar (4353 psi) and a yoke tank is rated to 232 bar (3364 psi). If you fill a DIN tank to 300 bar and use a yoke regulator on it, you could end up in a world of hurt or worse.

To adapt a yoke regulator to a DIN tank, you’ll insert a “plug” with the dimensions of the yoke valve into the DIN opening on the tank. This does not change the working pressure of the tank. Most high-pressure DIN tanks are filled beyond the safe limit for yoke regulators, so your yoke regulator may not be able to handle the higher pressure.

By nature, the yoke tank contains an external O-ring. This O-ring can rupture when subjected to too much pressure—best case scenario, it ruptures on the boat while you are setting up. Worst case scenario, it bursts underwater. By using a high-pressure tank that’s filled to 300 bar, you’re taking a chance on that O-ring rupturing.

If you don’t have a high-pressure tank filled to over 232 bar (3364 psi) limit you should be fine. But remember, most high-pressure tanks are filled beyond the limit of a yoke-fitted regulator. So, if you use a yoke regulator on a DIN tank, make sure the pressure of the tank does not exceed 232 bar (3364 psi) before you add the yoke to the tank.

Once you’ve checked, all you need is an insert and an allen key. Any dive center worth its salt (water) will have these readily available. But it’s never a bad idea to have a few extra with you just in case. You can pick them up here.

We generally do not recommend this except for the most experienced divers. It can be a safety issue that novice divers may not have the experience to recognize.

Pro Tip: Use your old mask box to store your inserts, allen keys, scuba multi-tool, spare fin straps, and all those bits and pieces the well-equipped diver never leaves the shore without.

How much do you want to spend?

Here at DIVEIN, we classify regulators into three categories: budget, mid-range, and high-end.

We consider any regulator up to or around $350 as a budget or entry-level regulator. Don’t let the cost fool you though— a great many of them are still really good regulators. What you will run into, however, is that most of these are unbalanced. This means you will feel a much harder breathing effort as you descend deeper.

Also, many of these regulators are not environmentally sealed, making them a poor choice for cold-water diving. Think about where you dive most frequently. If you plan to plunge into cold water anytime soon, choose a higher-level regulator.

Our mid-range category runs from roughly $350 to $799. You can find a mixture between budget and high-end in this category. Some will be balanced but not environmentally sealed and vice versa. Some might not perform quite as well as the high-performance regulators, but if you only dive on vacation, this category would be a good fit. Ultimately, this price range hits the sweet spot for the vast majority of divers.

Our high-end, or high-performance, category contains those regulators that cost above $799. These are high-performance regulators that are both environmentally sealed and balanced. You will find these regulators on the tanks of instructors, divemasters, advanced divers that dive deep, and technical divers.

Not everybody in the diving world needs a regulator that meets these specifications. However, if you anticipate advancing through your diving career, or if you just seek the highest level of machinery, it might not be a bad idea to start with—or upgrade to—one of these regulators.

Will you be diving in cold or warm water?

If you’ll be diving in water that’s significantly colder than 57 F (14 C), you need a scuba regulator that’s fit for that purpose. In fact, diving in water below 60 F (15 C) is considered cold-water diving. Make sure that it is environmentally sealed, or at the very least look for a regulator that has been built to isolate the internal mechanism.

All diaphragm-driven regulators, by their nature, are environmentally sealed. This level of protection ensures the first stage will not freeze up because no contact occurs between the surrounding water and the internal parts.

But surely, 60 F doesn’t seem that cold. So why would this be an issue? Due to the way first-stage regulators move highly pressurized air at incredibly high speeds, the regulators routinely drop in temperature up to 20 degrees. This happens because the air pressure moving from the tank into the first stage drops, thus rapidly expanding the air and cooling it, regardless of the water temperature. Warm water, however, acts as an insulator, while cold water doesn’t give the regulator a chance to warm up.

A metal second stage is also better for cold-water diving because metal has more thermal conductivity than plastic. Any scuba regulator is fine for use in warm water.

Consider ease of breathing

This one is a no-brainer, since your regulator needs to be easy to breathe from without undue resistance. Because you can’t always test out a regulator before you buy it, choose trusted brands. Check scuba forums for advice and reviews, and follow the information you find in trusted publications, such as this one.

On the whole, piston-driven regulators are a simpler design, and allow a larger volume of air to reach the second stage. Recently, a spate of inexpensive knock-off regulators have made their way into the marketplace. Are these unknown brands tested to meet stringent safety standards? Our advice here is to steer clear—if the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

What does balanced or unbalanced mean?

A balanced regulator neither assists nor resists the flow of air; it breathes the same under all conditions. This matters when it comes to external conditions including the amount of gas remaining in a tank, depth, or breathing rate. At lower tank pressures, an unbalanced regulator may exhibit increased resistance.

While balanced scuba regulators really start to perform on dives deeper than 130 feet (40 m), you’ll already feel the difference as you approach 100 feet (30 m). So, if you’re planning to dive mostly in deeper water, choose a balanced reg.

Note that internal, more complicated mechanisms are to thank for making a regulator “balanced,” which will make the reg more expensive.

What gasses will I be using?

Most regulators are safe to use with EANx (enriched air nitrox) up to 40% once you are trained and certified. Becoming EANx certified allows a diver to calculate the best mix possible and maximum operating depth.

For decompression diving, you should consider the regulator’s compatibility with gasses including higher-percentage oxygen, and you will certainly need to choose a DIN regulator. Again, this level of diving requires more certification training and vast experience prior to undertaking.

How many ports does a regulator have?

The first stage should have a minimum of three low-pressure ports (sometimes marked as MP or medium pressure) for recreational diving— one for the primary second stage, one for the alternate, and one for the inflator hose. If you dive with a drysuit, you will need an additional port so you can add air to your suit from the tank.

There will also be a high-pressure port (marked HP) for the Submersible Pressure Gauge (SPG)/console. Contrary to the belief of some, you still need an SPG when diving with a transmitter and air-integrated computer.

Scuba regulator weight

If you’re traveling for diving a lot, you’ll want a regulator that doesn’t take up a lot of your weight allowance. Look for regs that have been specifically designed for travel.

Keep in mind, though, that weight is at the bottom of this list for a reason. Don’t pick a regulator that won’t perform as you expect it to or one that won’t meet your needs based purely on size or weight. The heaviest regulator on the market today weighs in at just over 2 pounds (0.9 kg), while the lightest weighs just under 16 oz (.45 kg), and 16 oz in checked luggage won’t make or break your holiday.

Look at other equipment to lighten your load. Besides, you should probably carry your most important piece of lifesaving equipment in your carry-on baggage.

Are you purchasing a scuba regulator for a child?

If so, look for a regulator with slightly shorter hoses and a mouthpiece that will fit comfortably in smaller mouths. Our top picks for children’s scuba regulators are the Scubapro MK2 EVO or the Aqualung Mikron. Both of these trustworthy regulators come in DIN and yoke versions and include an R195 second stage, or Mikron second stage, respectively.